Sunday, September 27, 2020

Ode to Ghost Rider



 Bob Scott Campground, Nevada

Two months ago a friend suggested I read Neil Peart’s memoir Ghost Rider.  I started it two weeks ago and have found it to be equal parts solace and inspiration.  After Neil’s daughter and wife died (separately) within ten months of each other he was close to suicidal.  He took off on his BMW motorcycle and chronicled his grief and growth in this well-written book of adventure.  I highly recommend it to anyone but particularly to people who have lost a spouse.

Neil's love of being on the road matches mine and his stories made me want to leave as soon as possible.  There is no measurement for grief, but losing a spouse is not something people understand until they, sadly, come to know.  There is great solace for me in reading his words; I do not feel so alone.  In addition, he and I have traveled on many of the same roads, including my route today which, on the Nevada road map, is labeled “The Loneliest Road in America”.  I kid you not.

As is usual for both Neil and myself, I was anxious to get on the road this morning.  But I made myself take time for a walk with the Noses over to the Mono Lake Visitor Center (closed for winter) where we took a few minutes to sit on a bench and enjoy the view. 

Sitting there, I was filled with gratitude for living on this planet and enjoyed noticing how the pixels aligned themselves into tall, distant mountains, then closer, rolling hills, then the water, then the islands and the birds.  I felt a pang when I realized I would love to share that moment with someone; someone I trust who is different from me.  Their perception of the morning might bring about even more appreciation.  That, to me, is one of the greatest parts of sharing your life with someone—it makes the world twice as big and twice as beautiful.

I found myself talking to Alan which is a rare thing indeed; I have often yelled at him over the past few years but rarely do I speak to him.  This morning I said, “I hope you are somewhere as magnificent as this planet, sitting with Rosco and enjoying your place.”  Just like Neil would, I let myself cry which felt good. 

And then I realized that I had thought of Alan as not being on Earth. 

For the first time.

Ever. 

In over three years.   

And so I borrowed a phrase from Neil who simply said, when he walked back into his house after months on the road and saw pictures of his wife and daughter, “I know.”

After saying goodbye to my camp neighbors, I set off down an unfamiliar highway.  It was early and there were very few cars.  Just a long, straight road leading from California into Nevada.  Honestly, I was a bit scared so I tried to focus on the lovely scenery.   (Back at home I wrote on my white board, “Remember Kit, if you aren’t a little scared you aren’t getting anywhere.”)


About an hour into the drive, I saw a sign, “Accident Ahead” and thought, wow, it must be some accident for someone to put up that sign.  Then, in about half a mile I came to a complete stop.  There was a line of cars ahead of me and, as we sat there, the line grew longer and longer behind me. 

I ventured out of the car and the motorcyclist in front of me struck up a conversation.  I immediately thought of Neil Peart—here was the Ghost Rider right in front of me.  We sat for over an hour before the cars began to come toward us in the other lane.  We would move about a quarter mile up and then have to stop again; clearly they were alternating the east and west bound traffic through one lane.  Our final stop was just as Mr. Motorcycle reached the accident.

It was a horrendous site; a semi and a motorcycle.  The semi’s front fender was bent under, the truck on its side, the motorcycle in a million pieces, the body of which had clearly lit on fire.  There were no survivors present, the cyclist’s helmet sat, oddly shining and seemingly unscathed, amongst the rubble.

I briefly closed my eyes and wished his soul a quick departure for places unknown and sent a wave of compassion toward the people who loved him but must remain.

Then I wished Mr. Motorcyclist a safe journey.

-K


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